Fort Benton, Montana

The Missouri River proved to be a constant challenge to the men of the expedition. On May 31, 1805, Lewis described a situation that could prove daunting, but not for the brave men of the Corps of Discovery:

“The obstructions of rocky points and riffles still continue as yesterday; at those places the men are compelled to be much in the water even to their armpits, and the water is yet very could, and so frequent are those point that they are one fourth of their time in the water, added to this the banks and bluffs along which they are obliged to pass are so slippery and the mud so tenacious that they are unable to wear their mockersons, and in that situation dragging the heavy burthen of a canoe and walking occasionally for several hundred yards over the sharp fragments of rocks which tumble from the clifts and garnish the borders of the river; in short their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those faithfull fellows bear it without a murmur.”

And yet, on the same day, Lewis wrote eloquently of his awe of the views the river provided:

“The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a most romantic appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300 feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of remarkable white sandstone which is sufficiently soft to give way readily to the impression of water; two or thre thin horizontal stratas of white freestone, on which the rains or water make no impression, lie imbedded in these clifts of soft stone near the upper part of them; … The water in the course of time in decending from those hills and plains on either side of the river has trickled down the soft sand clifts and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures, which with the help of a little imagination and an oblique view at a distance, are made to represent elegant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, having their parapets well stocked with statuary; columns of various sculpture both grooved and plain, are also seen supporting long galleries in front of those buildings…nitches and alcoves of various forms and sizes are seen at different hights as we pass … As we passed on it seemed as if those seens of visionary inchantment would never have and end; for here it is too that nature presents to the view of the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, so perfect indeed are those walls that I should have thought that nature had attempted here to rival the human art of masonry had I not recollected that she had first began her work.”

As we arrived in Fort Benton, which is near the place Lewis penned his thoughts that day, we were rewarded with beautiful views of the Missouri River from overlooks above as well as along the riverside of the historic city. The Riverwalk includes many monuments marking numerous historical events of the city’s past. Of all the monuments, the sculpture of Lewis and Clark’s expedition was one of the finest sculpture of the Corps of Discovery we encountered on the trip.

Fort Benton was the first stop where the Lewis and Clark Trail and the Nez Perce Trail coincide. With my small but mighty Nez Perce heritage, I was moved to be traveling a part of the trail the Nez Perce traveled with Chief Joseph in the lead. This would not be the last encounter with the trail.

Several sites were well worth our time during our day in the small town. First we visited the Upper Missouri Breaks National Monument and Interpretive Center, which houses impressive exhibits concerning natural history, Native Americans, and the explorers. One of my favorite exhibits was the rifle that Chief Joseph laid down at the time of his surrender. Fort Benton and the Fort Benton Museum was also very well done. Two of the walls of a building in the fort were original to the Fort. Both military and Native American artifacts were displayed.

All in all, we were very satisfied with our day trip to Fort Benton and would go back if we have the opportunity.

Montana’s Island Mountains

After traveling through prairie for a few weeks, we were surprised to suddenly see mountains ahead. They appeared as small mountain ranges in a sea of prairie, and, in fact, they were formed by the rocky earth being pushed up and through the prairie. Lewis and Clark were also surprised by the mountains, because they were neither a continuation of the Black Hills of North Dakota nor the Rocky Mountains.

When Clark first saw the mountains on May 25, 1805, he reported:

“those mountains appeared to be detached, and not ranges as laid down by the Minetarres, I also think I saw a range of high mounts. At a great distance to the S S W. but am not certain as the horizon was not clear enough to view it with Certainty.”

The next day, Lewis spotted the mountains and thought he was seeing the Rocky Mountains for the first time. He was elated as he believed they were much nearer than they were to the source of the Missouri and that the Rockies were close to the source. However, he would learn that they were still very far off from the Rocky Mountains.

The Island Mountains are the Little Rocky Mountains and Bears Paw Mountains to the north, the Judith Mountain Range to the south, and the HighwoodMountains in the distance near Great Falls. The Judith Range was named by William Clark for his future wife, Julia Hancock.

One of the sights on our way up the mountain.

We found that we would be able to drive to Judith Peak, so we set out in our four-wheel drive pickup on the winding gravel road that led to the summit of the 6,247 foot mountain. We definitely needed the four-wheel drive on the steep grades. This, for us, was a great adventure since neither of us are comfortable on narrow mountain roads, and we were rewarded for this adventure with a 360⁰ view of the area. It was fascinating to see extensive prairie in one direction and mountains in another. 

We were the only ones there that day, which added to our enjoyment of the experience. It was just us and a lot of telecommunications equipment (which is the reason why the road to the top is so well maintained).

Northeast Montana

When The Corps of Discovery entered into what is now the state of Montana, they began to notice more new animals such as the bighorn sheep, mule deer, and a variety of birds.  The number of antelopes and wolves increased, and beavers were both plentiful and unafraid. The members of the Corps found that beavers were excellent for food, especially the tail. But they also began to encounter grizzly bears, which at first they called white, brown, yellow, or red bears. 

Expedition members soon discovered that whatever the color, the bears were as ferocious as they had been described to them. Even with the Corps' superior weapons, they found the bears difficult to kill and dangerous. Lewis recorded that compared to the black bear, “it is a much more furious and formidable animal, and will frequently pursue the hunter when wounded. It is astonishing to see the wounds they will bear before they can be put to death.” On May 5, 1805, Captain Clark and Droulliard killed a large grizzly that put up a tremendous struggle even with “five balls through his lungs and five others in various parts he swam more than half the distance acoss the river to a sandbar & it was at least twenty minutes before he died.”

Lewis described the country in northeast Montana as:

“much more pleasant and fertile than that we have passed for several days; the hills are lower, the bottoms wider, and better stocked with timber, which consists principally of cottonwood…the high country on either side of the river is one vast plain, intirely destitute of timber, but is apparently fertile, consisting of a dark rich mellow looking lome.”

Today, northeastern Montana along the Missouri River looks much different than in 1805 due to the construction of Fort Peck Dam. The places the expedition camped are now underwater. But the plains beyond remain fertile and very pleasant. 

The dam is just over 250 feet high and 3,500 feet wide at the base. The length of the dam is 21,026 feet. Lake Peck is 134 miles long and is 220 feet at its deepest. Not only does the dam produce about 1 billion kilo watt hours annually, but it provides significant recreational boating, fishing, camping, and wild life viewing opportunities. 

The Fort Peck Visitor Center houses an excellent museum that tells the story of the Hell Creek Geological Formation, the people who have lived in the area, and the dam. A tour of the dam and its five huge generators begins with a photo history of the construction of the dam.

Northeastern Montana remains mostly rural, and we enjoyed seeing so much undeveloped country and the natural state of the area.

Camping at Lake Sakakawea

After leaving the Bismarck area, we camped at two state parks on the shores of Lake Sakakawea, which was formed by Garrison Dam, the fifth largest earthen dam in the world. The lake is 178 miles long and 6 miles wide at the widest point. The lake is named after the young Shoshone wife of Lewis and Clark's interpreter Charboneau. Sakakawea is the preferred spelling of the Hidatsa Indians with whom she lived.

Fort Stevenson State Park

The Guard House at Fort Stevenson State Park

Fort Stevenson State Park is on the northeastern shore of Lake Sakakawea. The Corps of Discovery camped at two locations near where Fort Stevenson would later be built. They camped in one site on their way west (April 9, 1805) and at the other on their return trip (August 13, 1806). When Garrison Dam was completed, the camp areas were submerged. 

The guard house building presents exhibits related to Native American and military life.

Hiking View

The setting is stunningly beautiful with high bluffs along the lake shore, and the hiking trails have sweeping views of the lake.

Black Tailed Prairie Dog

Wild life is abundant and includes a black tailed prairie dog colony, which we visited. We also sighted a thirteen lined ground squirrel, described by Lewis while traveling through present day Montana. 

Thirteen Lined Ground Squirrel

Lewis and Clark State Park

Lewis and Clark State Park is located on the northwestern shore of Lake Sakakawea. It was obviously named for the intrepid explorers who co-led the Corps of Discovery. The expedition camped at nearby Short Creek, but is now submerged beneath the lake. On the return trip, about 10 miles east of the park, Lewis was accidentally shot by Cruzatte, a skillful waterman who was very nearsighted. Cruzatte mistook Lewis for an elk. The injury was not life-threatening but very painful, and it caused Lewis to have to complete most of the remainder of the trip on his belly.

Sunset on Lake Sakakawea

As we enjoyed hiking and viewing the sunrises and sunsets, we could easily imagine Lewis and Clark enjoying the sights they wrote of so frequently in their journals.

A Hiking View

Washburn, North Dakota Area

When the Mandan nation relocated, they settled further north along the Knife River near the Missouri. It was then that the Mandans and Hidatsas became neighbors and allies. Lewis and Clark met the Mandans when they reached the Knife River in 1804. Lewis and Clark made the decision to spend the winter near the two nations, and they named their fort “Fort Mandan” in honor of their neighbors. Throughout the bitter cold winter they were visited by, traded with, and hunted with the Mandan and Hidatsa people. The Knife River Indian Villages Park, Fort Mandan, and a Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center are located near present day Washburn, North Dakota.

Knife River Indian Village

The Knife River Indian Villages Park tells the story of the Mandan people, their history, their economy, and their contact with the French, British, and American people. 

In addition to exhibits in the Knife River Indian Villages Visitor Center, the park also presented an authentic replica of a Mandan lodge.

Lodge Storage

Lodge Games

Three Sisters Garden

The grounds include a three sisters garden in which squash, bean, and corn are grown as well as sunflowers and a drying rack used to preserve food.

Sunflower Seeds, Squash, Beans, and Corn
 are Preserved for Winter Food and Trading

Fourth Graders Learning

When we arrived, a class of fourth graders was also visiting, and the Visitor Center staff were engaging them in building a lodge.

Fort Mandan

Fort Mandan is a reproduction of the Fort built by the Corps of Discovery, which was largely destroyed by the time the members of the expedition returned in 1806.




The guided tour of the fort provides interesting facts about the time the members of the expedition stayed there including that the Corps of Discovery would make or repair metal weapons and tools in exchange for corn and that Lewis tended to medical needs during the winter including the delivery of Sakakawea’s baby. In looking at the fort, it is hard to comprehend over 35 men (and one woman and an infant) living in such a confined area. I’m sure there must have been an outbreak or two of cabin fever.

What Lewis' Work Area May Have
Looked Like

What Clark's Work Area
May Have Looked Like

Entertainment Center

Sleeping Quarters 

The Workroom/Blacksmith Shop

A Favorite Weapon Design
of the Mandans

Lewis' Dog Seaman

Seaman is Honored

A key feature of the Fort Mandan Site is a sculpture in honor of Lewis’ Newfoundland dog, Seaman.

Now there's the good boy!

 North Dakota Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center 

The Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in Washburn is a comprehensive museum telling the story of the expedition with a focus on the time spent in North Dakota. Inside is an impressive collection of artwork and artifacts. Outside is a sculpture depicting Captain Lewis, a Mandan, and an interpreter in conversation.

Bismarck, North Dakota Area

As the Corps of Discovery moved into the area that is now the Dakotas, they encountered several Indian nations each with a unique reaction to the expedition. For example, in South Dakota, the Yankton Sioux were a friendly tribe while the Teton Sioux were very aggressive and wanted to maintain their control of the Missouri River. When Lewis and Clark encountered the Mandan and Hidatsa nations in North Dakota, they were impressed by their skill in trading and their hospitality. 

Compared to other nations, the Mandans and Hidatsas were very prosperous. The prosperity was most likely due to their lifestyle. Since they were able to maintain stable villages, they were able to maintain stable villages, to use the fertile river banks to grow nutritious foods (especially squash, corn, and beans), and to use the traffic on the Missouri to trade with other nations.

Lewis and Clark spent the winter of 1804-1805 near the Mandans and Hidatsas in their fort, which they named Fort Mandan (see the next blog). 

While Lewis and Clark were with the Mandans, they decided to hire a French interpreter, Toussant Charboneau, and one of his young wives, Sakakawea, who the Hidatsas kidnapped from the Shoshone people as a child. She was probably about 16 or 17 years old when the expedition reached North Dakota. Lewis and Clark knew they would meet the Shoshone nation and that they would need to trade with them. Sakakawea would be very helpful in interpreting during negotiations. During the winter, Sakakawea gave birth to a son named John Baptiste Charboneau whom the members of the expedition nicknamed Pomp.

Entering the Indian Village Area

We visited Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park, which is known for two excellent historical sites. The first site is the reconstruction of Fort Abraham Lincoln, including the house in which Lt. Col. George Custer and his wife lived while stationed there. The second site is the On-A-Slant Village where we took a guided tour of the Mandan Village that was reconstructed on a site that was previously occupied by the Mandans. 

The Confluence of the Heart
and Missouri Rivers

The village was named because it slanted toward the Heart River, and it was located at the confluence of the Heart River with the Missouri. The Mandans abandoned the village and moved further north along the Missouri River after a devastating small pox epidemic and attacks by hostile tribes.The Mandans had occupied the Heart River site from 1571 to 1780, over 200 years! 

An Indentation From the Original Village

Lewis and Clark recognized the site as an abandoned village by the dish-like indentations where lodges had collapsed. The indentations remain today.

The Village

Lodges were built by women out of logs for the frame and earth for the rest. They were round in shape with a hole in the top for the smoke from the fire to escape. The doorway was wood, and on the inside, a buffalo robe would cover the opening. 

Decorative Robe

Lodges had decorative features such as painted buffalo robes. The beds would also use buffalo robes to make them more comfortable, and backrests were commonly used.

A Bed

A Backrest

Keel Boat Exhibit

While in Bismarck, we also visited Keel Boat
 Park along the Bismarck Riverwalk and the North Dakota Heritage Center. We were hoping to take the Lewis and Clark Riverboat Cruise, but it only operated on the weekends by the time we were there. Drat!

Despite that, we had a wonderful time, and the weather was gorgeous while we were there.

Extra Large Sculpture of the Expedition at Keel Boat Park