South Dakota

Gene and I spent five days in eastern South Dakota, but it seems like more because I fell in love with the area. Not that the campground was so great. It was okay, but it was very noisy since it was right next to the Interstate. I think it was the calming scenery (very soothing color pallet) and the people we met who were so nice and very helpful. Also, the interpretations of the Lewis and Clark and native cultures were very well done.

Spirit Mound

The Spirit Mound was believed by the Omaha, Otoe, and Yankton tribes to be bewitched. They thought it was inhabited with tiny people who shot at anyone who came near. Even today there are those who think the area is haunted. 

Clark described the mound on August 24, 2004:

"in an imence Plain a high Hill is Situated, and appears of a Conic form and by the different nations of Indians in this quarter is Suppose to be the residence of Deavels. that they are in human form with remarkable large heads and about 18 Inches high, that they are Very watchfull, and are arm'd with Sharp arrows with which they Can Kill at a great distance; they are Said to Kill all persons who are So hardy as to attempt to approach the hill; they State that tradition informs them that many Indians have Suffered by those little people and among other three Mahar men fell a Sacrefise to their murceyless fury not many years Since-- So much do the Maha, Souis, Ottoes and other neighboring nations believe this fable that no Consideration is Suffecient to induce them to approach the hill."

But, like Lewis and Clark, who actually stood on the same mound we did; we did not feel the least bit uneasy, and nobody was shooting at us. That does not alter the fact, however, that the spot has an important history for the Native Americans and now to all Americans because of all the places along the Lewis and Clark Trail, there are very few that we know for certain it is the same place they stood. And this is one of those places.

On August 25, 1804, Clark recorded their experience at the mound:

"Capt Lewis & my Self Concluded to go and See the Mound which was viewed with Such turrow by all the different Nation in this quarter...this mound appears of a Conic form...The reagular form of this hill would in Some measure justify a belief that it owed its Orrigin to the hand of man; but as the earth and loos pebbles and other Substances of which it was Composed, bare an exact resemblance to the Steep Ground which border on the Creek in its neighbourhood we Concluded it was most probably the production of nature...The Surrounding Plains is open void of Timber and leavel to a great extent: hence the wind from whatever quarter it may blow, drives with unusial force over the naked Plains and against this hill; the insects of various kinds are thus involuntaryly driven to the mound by the force of the wind, or fly to its Leward Side for Shelter; the Small Birds whoes food they are, Consequently resort in great numbers to this place in Surch of them...

 "One evidence which the Inds Give for believing this place to be the residence of Some unusial Spirits is that they frequently discover a large assemblage of Birds about this mound-- is in my opinion a Suffient proof to produce in the Savage mind a Confident belief of all the properties which they ascribe it. from the top of this Mound we beheld a most butifull landscape; Numerous herds of buffalow were Seen feeding in various directions, the Plain to North N. W & N E extends without interuption as far as Can be Seen..."

A major difference for us, of course, we did not see the buffalo.

Chamberlain, South Dakota, Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center

Welcome Center Tipi

I was so excited to see the Interpretive Center at the Visitor Center that Gene and I drove over to it the evening we arrived in Chamberlain. We were so glad we did because the sun was setting just when we got there. The large Tipi is a trademark of the rest areas along I-90 in South Dakota. In the picture, you can also see the Missouri River below. It was a gorgeous site to see. The Visitor Center was closed already, but there were some trails that looked like they would give me a better view. I started to walk down a trail and heard an elk bellowing in the bushes to my left. It didn't sound like it was very far away. I thought, "Hmm, isn't that interesting." I walked a little further, and I heard another elk bellowing, still pretty close. I thought, "Hmm, maybe I should go back."

Corps of Discovery Disc

The next day we returned to go through the Interpretive Center, and we were pretty impressed with the exhibits they had. Plus, the way the building was constructed was quite interesting. The second floor was built like a keel boat, and the boat extended to the outside so that it was an excellent overview of the river. The site also had one of the medallions that were used to mark many of the official Lewis and Clark sites during the bicentennial. Chamberlain is one of the hundreds of places the Corps of Discovery made camps during the journey.

Akta Lakota Museum and Cultural Center

The Entrance to the Museum

Also located in Chamberlain is the Akta Lakota Museum and Cultural Center, which is located at the St. Joseph's Indian School. The museum has three parts: one part tells the story of the St. Joseph's Indian School and how the principles of educating and caring for the children have changed over the years, another part tells the story of the local history and culture from pre-history through the present, and the final part is an outdoor medicine garden. All three parts are exceptionally well done. We took at least two hours to go through the museum, and it was time well spent. Since it is located right next to the Missouri River, we also took a stroll to enjoy the weather and the view.  

Quilt Exhibit

One of my favorite exhibits at the St. Joseph's School section was this one that shows how the girls in the school were taught to use old clothes to make quilts. The younger girls would cut the fabric, and the older girls would sew the quilts.

The Medicine Garden

The medicine garden is surrounded by large panels shaped like buffalo skins with prayers written out on the other side of the skin. The center of the garden is the medicine circle used by the Lakota.




Fischers Lilly Park, Site of the Confluence of the Bad River, and Ill Humered Island

The Flag a Fischers Lilly Park

We visited two sites on September 11. At many of the Lewis and Clark sites, it is customary for the site to fly the 15-star flag used during the time of the expedition. It was a bit eerie to see that flag at half staff, but in a way it tied history together.

In Fort Pierre (pronounced Fort Peer) we visited Fischers Lilly Park, which is a beautiful park at the location where the Bad River flows into the Missouri River and across from Bad Humered Island (today called La Framboise Island).

The park is located where the Corps of Discovery camped and first met with the Teton Lakota nation. The interaction is one of the most important of the journey. For various reasons, the encounter led to an armed confrontation and very nearly endangered the success of the endeavor.

Mouth of the Bad River with Bad Humered Island Beyond

Lewis and Clark had high hopes for a successful meeting with the Lakota chiefs as indicated by Clark's journal entry of September 25, 1804, "a fair morning   the wind from the S. E.   all well, raised a Flag Staff & made a orning or Shade on a Sand bar in the mouth of the Teton River for the purpose of Speeking with the Indians under..."

The Mouth of the Bad River from Bad Humered Island

Despite the hopes of the party, things did not go well with the council, and before it was over, the keel boat's swivel guns were loaded but not used. Clark named the island that they camped on across from the Bad River Bad Humered Island, "as we were in a bad humer."





South Dakota Cultural Heritage Center

Flags at Half Staff at the
Cultural Heritage Center 

The South Dakota Cultural Heritage Center is located atop a high bluff and seems to fade into the landscape. It sits higher than Pierre (pronounced Peer), and boasts a superior view of the city.

The South Dakota Cultural Heritage Center

The building houses the state archives and research area as well as a beautifully-presented gallery of South Dakota's cultural heritage from pre-history through pre-statehood to the present. It took us about 1.5 hours to go through the exhibits in the gallery, and we found them quite engaging.

An Example of a Winter Counts History

I especially admired Cultural Center's exhibit of the story-telling winter-count calendar. A winter count is a history in which major events are recorded by pictures. One picture is used to record a signature event for each year. A single buffalo skin like this one could be used to document hundreds of years.

Sioux Falls

Sioux Falls, South Dakota

We have made a point of stopping at visitor centers when we enter a new state to get an up-to-date state map and information about sights we may like to see. When we entered South Dakota, the very helpful staff showed us how close we were to Sioux Falls and encouraged us to make that stop, and we decided to do it.

Even though Sioux Falls was not on the Lewis and Clark Trail (it is on the Sioux River, not the Missouri), we felt it was well within the spirit of discovery to stop. 

We were glad we decided to stop in Sioux Fall Park. It was a spectacular sight, and the weather was ideal. I would have loved to have been able to stop for longer, but we did need to get on the road for our next stop.

Iowa and Nebraska Lewis and Clark Sites

Council Bluffs, Iowa

We were excited to visit Council Bluffs, the site of the first council the Corps of Discovery held with Native Americans living west of the Missouri River, and the overlook and commemorative site were more than we had expected.

Overlook at Council Bluffs

The Corps of Discovery camped at what they called Camp Whitefish, which was about ten miles from the Platte River convergence to make the normal observations and to arrange for a meeting with the Indians in the area. Clark sent George Drewyer and Petter Crousett out to look for the Otoes and Pawnees to request that the chiefs join them for a council. The men of the Corps busied themselves by drying out their provisions, making new oars, hunting and dressing skins, Clark updated the maps, and Lewis prepared papers to send back to President Jefferson. Drewyer and Crousett returned, but reported that they did not find any Indians in the villages and though they did see signs of a small hunting party, they were unable to locate them. However, after the Corps had moved up river north of Council Bluffs, they did encounter and Indian, and la Liberty (one of the interpreters) traveled to the village to invite the chiefs to a council.

The view from Council Bluffs

Clark noted in his journal:
  "Capt. Lewis and my Self walked in the Prairie on the top of the Bluff and observed the most butifull prospects imagionable, this Prairie is Covered with grass about 10 or 12 Inch high, rises about 1/2 a mile back Something higher and is a Plain as fur as Can be Seen, under those high Lands next the river is butifull Bottom interspersed with Groves of timber, the River may be seen for a great Distance..."

Monument at Council Bluffs

Finally, after several days, the interpreter, Mr. Fairfong, brought a party of Otoe and Missourie Indians to the camp, and arrangements were made for the Corps of Discovery's first council with the Natives. Clark described the Indians as as "handsome stout well made set of Indians & have good open Countenances, and are of a light brown colour, and have long black hair, which they do wear without cutting."

Image on the monument

Omaha, Nebraska

We made a stop in Omaha to visit the National Headquarters for the Lewis and Clark Trail. The Headquarters are located right next to the Omaha Riverwalk. Since we were there just before Labor Day, all kinds of preparations were being made for river side festivities.

The Center has lots of information about the trail from beginning to end, and we collected brochures for later. One of the exhibits I found interesting was a poster showing how the Native Americans used every part of the buffalo. I had always heard that they did, but the poster was helpful in showing what was used for what. 

How Native Americans Used the Buffalo

Pedestrian Bridge from Nebraska to Omaha

We also walked across the Bob Kerry Pedestrian Bridge that connects Council Bluffs, Iowa with Omaha, Nebraska. About halfway across the bridge, you can stand in both Nebraska and Iowa at the same time. The weather was glorious. very warm, but not hot, and the breeze while we walked across the bridge made it perfect.

In Two States

The Missouri River from Nebraka/Iowa

The Fountain in the Heartland of America Park

Also along the Riverwalk past the Lewis and Clark Landing is the Heartland of America Park and fountain, an absolutely beautiful setting with trails, a large pond, and a fabulous fountain that jets water up to 300 feet. Ducks and geese are plentiful either swimming in the spacious pond, lounging on the island, or hoping for crumbs from picnickers. Visiting the park topped off our visit to Omaha.

A happy face

Lewis and Clark State Park, Iowa

Keel Boat Replica and Visitor Center

Replica of Lewis' Experimental Craft

Next, we visited the keel boat exhibit at Lewis and Clark State Park in Iowa. The visitor center houses informative exhibits of the keel boat, pirougues, and the experimental boat Lewis designed as well as of local natural history. A full-size replica of the keel boat floats on the lake, and at times, it is taken out onto the lake with visitors aboard. We were not so fortunate as to take part in that activity.

Ponca State Park, Nebraska
Ponca State Park is located on the high, scenic bluffs of northeastern Nebraska along the banks of the Missouri River. Here the river begins a rare section in which it is allowed to meander at will unhindered by attempts to tame it for human benefit. It is one of the sections that is most likely to appear today much as it did at the time of Lewis and Clark. on August 5, 1804, Clark wrote:

View of the Missouri

"In every bend the banks are falling in from the Current being thrown against those bends by the Sand points which inlarges and the Soil I believe from unquestionable appearns. of the entire bottom from one hill to the other being the mud or ooze of the River at Some former Period mixed with Sand and Clay easily melts and Slips into the River, and the mud mixes with the water & the Sand is washed down and lodges on the points-"

Overlook at Ponca State Park

This beautiful park has an education center, wonderful lodges and campgrounds, and miles of trails through the bluffs with spectacular views of the river. We stopped at an overlook that boasts the ability to see three states: Nebraska, South Dakota on the opposite bank, and Iowa to the east.

Towers of Time

In addition to the connection to Lewis and Clark and the natural beauty of the area, the park has a prominently placed, beautifully detailed sculpture entitled, "Towers of Time," which depicts and honors the animals and people of Nebraska.

The Center Sculpture

Blackbird Overlook, Nebraska

The Disappointing Overlook

We were disappointed with the Chief Blackbird Scenic Overlook. We were expecting to see a gorgeous vista including the Missouri River, but the overlook is so overgrown that we could not see the river at all.

Omaha Tribe Interpretive Lodge

We did enjoy the site's interpretation of the Omaha Tribe's lodges, which included a wealth of information about tribal relationships, religion, and history.

Look carefully for the visitor on the blossom

Sergeant Floyd Monument, Iowa

While the former site underwhelmed us, the Sgt. Floyd Monument site exceeded our expectations. The monument was erected in honor of the only member of the Corps of Discovery to lose his life along the way. It is assumed that he died from a ruptured appendix. On August 19, Clark wrote:

"Sergt. Floyd was taken violently bad with the Beliose Cholick and is dangerously ill   we attempt in Vain to releive him, I am much concerned for his Situation-  we could get nothing to Stay on his Stomach a moment  nature appear exosting fast in him  every man is attentive to him york prlly"

On August 20, he wrote:

"...Floyd died with a great deel of Composure, before his death he Said to me, 'I am going away' I want you to write me a letter' -  We buried him on the top of the bluff 1/2 Miles below a Small river to which we Gave his name, be was buried with the Honors of War much lamented; a Seeder post with the Name Sergt. C. Floyd died here 20th of August 1804 was fixed at the head of his grave - This Man at all times gave us proofs of his firmness and Deturmined resolution to doe Service to his Countrey and honor to himself"

An Impressive Overlook

Gene Taking in the View

Today the site does honor to Sgt. Floyd and is a place of reverence and awe. The place is marked with an obelisk and an impressive overlook of the river that lends itself well to reflection.






Iowa Welcome Center

Iowa Welcome Center

View of the Icons and Names

Before leaving Iowa, we had another pleasant surprise. We found a rest area/Welcome Center that also commemorated the Corps of Discovery. The exterior of the building contains tile icons of the journey including Clark's map, an Arikara shield, a buffalo robe, the keel boat, the presidential coin, and drawings from Lewis' journals as well as the names of the members of the Corps of Discovery including York, Sacajawea, and Seaman.

A Canoe-Shaped Bench

We were somewhat impressed by the attention to detail. Even to the shape of the benches outside. They are shaped like canoes.

A Friendly Sight

Well, this has been a long post, but I hope you have enjoyed the content.

St. Joseph, Missouri

The Corps of Discovery reached the area that is present day St. Joseph by July 6, 1804. Clark commented on the oppressive humidity and its impact on the men:

"(worthy of remark that the water of this river or Some other Cause, I think that the most Probable throws out a greater preposn. of Swet than I could Suppose Could pass thro: the humane body  Those men that do not work at all will wet a Shirt in a Few minits & those who work, the Swet will run off in Streams)."

In fact, the next day one of the men became "verry Sick, Struck with the Sun" according to Clark. Based on what Lewis had been taught about medicine back east, he provided the best treatment of the day, which was to bleed him and give him niter (a diuretic). According to Clark, the treatment "has revived him much." Today, the treatment would be almost opposite, he would be given water, kept as cool as possible, and maybe salt or other electrolytes. The man was probably lucky to survive the treatment.

The Corps also stopped near St. Joseph (on the opposite bank) where they met a fur trader traveling north. The trader entertained the Corps and provided as much whiskey as the men could drink.

St. Joseph had a mighty significance during the western expansion. Not only did Lewis and Clark go through St. Joseph, but the Oregon/California Trail also went through. St. Joseph was also the eastern terminus of the Pony Express.

The Pony Express Museum was one of those pleasantly surprising attractions. From the outside of the building, it appeared that the museum would be very small, but once inside, it was spacious and well laid out. In addition to the exhibits which tell the story of the short-lived pony express, it depicted the different types of terrains the riders faced, the way they lived on the trail, and the dangers they faced. The museum also houses a collection of art related to Wild Bill Hickok, who was a pony express rider as well.

For visitors with children, the museum has a very nice children's exploration/play area.






After our visit to the museum we walked through the park across the street and ran into this cutie. I had not seen a squirrel with a big fluffy, red tail before. I don't think she appreciated me stalking her with my camera.

Atchison, Kansas and Lewis and Clark State Park, Missouri

On July 4, 1804, the Corps of Discovery continued to travel north on the Missouri. Depending on the terrain, they would camp either on the west side of the river (Kansas) or the east side (Missouri). At times they would choose to camp on an island. On September 1, 2015, Gene and I visited sites on both sides of the river that honor the Corps of Discovery. We have noticed that in most sites, the flag flown is the one in use at the time of the expedition. It has 15 stars and 15 stripes even though, at the time, there were already 17 states. Up until then, whenever a state was added, a star and a stripe were added to the flag. If congress had not implemented a statute to limit the stripes to 13, today the flag could have pinstripes. I for one am very happy about the decision.


Atchison, Kansas, has honored the expedition with a beautiful pavilion, and a pathway along the river approximately follows the Lewis and Clark Trail.














Naturally, the commemorative parks are located adjacent to the Missouri River. It is easy to see how the river got it's name, "Big Muddy." Muddy it is, but pretty none the less.

One of the plaques at the pavilion singled out Lewis' Newfoundland dog named Seaman who proved himself to be a valuable asset to the Corps of Discovery with his skills in hunting and guarding. As noted here, Seaman endeared himself to the members of the expedition.



Lewis and Clark arrived at this location around the 4th of July. On the same day, they discovered a creek entering the river that had not been named. In honor of Independence Day, they called the creek Independence Creek.

"pass a Creek on the L.S. about 15 yards wide cuming out of an extensive Prarie as this Creek has no name, and this day is the 4th of July, we name this Independance us. Creek"                                                                                       William Clark

On the other side of the river in Missouri, we visited Lewis and Clark State Park. We were highly impressed with the park. It had a spacious campground area (although we did not camp there), and expansive grounds next to the lake that was formed as the river's course changed, called an oxbow lake. The lake was named Lewis and Clark Lake in their honor.

 

William Clark described the lake in his journal as “full of Geese & Goslings.” Today birdwatchers favor the area, which continues to attract a wide variety of water birds. In fact, we also found the lake to have a large population of geese.

The State Park houses a wonderful tribute to the entire Corps of Discovery called the Lewis and Clark Plaza. The plaza includes a monument located next to the lake in the shape of a circle with a compass in the center. Around the compass are panels the size of benches that bear the names of the members of the Corps of Discovery. 



The plaza also includes hiking trails and items related to the Indians in the area such as the tipi.